Push the car out of the garage so the sun could shine on it and that will help the paint cure.įor a show level finish you literally scrape the sags with a razor blade, then sand down the clear flat with 600 grit, then some go to 1000 or as high as 1500 grit with sand paper. These new Polyurethane paints almost always dry to an orange peal texture and where the clear is a little heavy it sags easily. Now on a production or typical body shop paint job this is the point where you are done. Under close inspection you can see the texture and mine did have one sag. You spray the base, then after it is flash dries, you spray the clear. If the base covers well you can do the base in one relatively thin coat. People put a thick high gloss layer of clear coat with UV protection. This is modern base coat / clear coat paint and painting process. If you start with PPG, then use all PPG products. About the only thing that is consistent is that everybody says to use the same system. One of the biggest expenses we incur while fixing up our cars is the paint job. Most body shops miss the finish work there because they think the mold and sit flush Our window molding sits below the edge of the body. There should be no Orange pill left and primer at all. I learned that on my own, and it has saved me lots of do-over late in the process. Your body man does not want that mistake either, and pinholes are very easy to miss. Much easier and cheaper to correct in primer. You'll see pinholes that will otherwise be missed. IF you have any filler, use a small inspection flashlight held nearly parallel to the surface. On a professional build like yours, they should be within 1/8" side to side, assuming the torsion bars have been adjusted.Ĭheck door, hood, and rear deck lid closure (should be easy, and not bind), and check fitment around perimeters of those (should be even with surrounding surfaces). Measure the wheel opening heights, at the center of the wheels. Stick your fingers between tire and opening. Look at the gaps between the front of the rear tires and front of the rear wheel opening, should be about the same. Look at the gaps to see if they are about even, 1) where the hood, door and fender come together at the sides of the cowl, 2) doors, 3) hood, 4) rear deck lid You should not see any waves or other imperfections. Get them to orient the car parallel to the lights. Look at the reflection of the fluorescent ceiling lights on the car to pick up imperfections in the metal surfaces. Make sure the "feature" line that runs across the lower part of the doors continues onto the quarter panel for about 6 inches or so. I don't like to have paint pealing off over time so I used the Bull Dog) (BTW it also is tremendous on engine blocks, drive train pieces, suspension pieces, et al. The paint needs to stick to the metal especially in the hood inserts so I used the adhesive primer. Then you do the body work.įor the pre-paint surface prep I use Bull Dog - it's a clear surface prep adhesive primer available at auto body supply stores. The latest in PPG primer products, it goes over metal, filler, etc in one shot. Makes for a better job with less filler, and makes the filler step a lot easier.Īdd the second coat, the topcoat with flat clear. So it is best to get it as straight as possible before you apply any filler. People with experience doing body work will tell you that the hardest part of any repair is the filler/finish work - getting it straight afterward. After that, it got sprayed with the red primer. So I sanded all of the surface rust off first (not shown) and then sprayed a rust converter on top of that to be safe. It also has rust inhibitors in it, so you could paint it over rust if you wish, but I don''t trust it. The red primer in an epoxy based primer that seals the metal to prevent moisture from getting beneath it. Here is mine after Zinc Chromate etch primer: The car should get Zinc Chromate etch primer (same as what you would see inside old aircraft). I've seen body parts that were blasted and left in a garage that were covered with rust in only a couple of months. You are smart to get it primered quickly.
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